Category Archives: Travel
Brugge (Part 2) – Summer 2022
By the time H. and I managed to tear ourselves away from work long enough to organise a much-needed holiday, all the hotels were booked up or too expensive. The fares had also gone up. So our plans to go … Continue reading
Brugge (Part 1) – 2009
I felt at home there even as I wheeled my suitcase from the train station. The mid-August sun was setting behind the rooftops on Züdzandstraat, the crow-stepped gables that looked like stairways to the sky. “I think there’s an error … Continue reading
“Jerusalema” on the Parvis
A wedding party is spilling out of the sternly robust 19th-century church that stands on the edge of the Parvis. The eye is immediately drawn to the splendid bride, skin like molten chocolate against the white lace dazzling in the … Continue reading
From a Word that Means “Bridge”
Brugge. That’s what I want to call it from now on. It’s in Flanders, not Wallonia. How typical of the Anglophones – the British in particular – to use its French name by default. We haven’t grown out … Continue reading
The Lady of Paris
When I first saw her, a few weeks ago, while crossing the Pont Saint-Michel, she looked like the ghost of a bygone age, her earthly life a memory, her soul gone from the stone. Grey against the bleak, overcast night … Continue reading
Queuing Outside la Comédie Française
Night is slowly permeating the evening sky in Place André Malraux. The rain has eased into a steady drizzle and the yellow street lamps have come on. The air is imbued with car exhaust fumes and roast chestnuts. A smell … Continue reading
Milan: Behind the Façade
I guess it was appropriate that my first conversation in Milan should have been about fashion. H. and I just had lunch at Stazione Centrale and were leaving the restaurant, trolley suitcases in tow, when I noticed a young woman … Continue reading
Paris to Rome by Train
“Why can’t we take the train?” “What – all the way?” H. gives me his your-quirkiness-is-turning-into-madness look. “It’s – it’s –” “The longest leg would be just twelve hours,” I filled in, smiling sweetly. “If you went to Australia, you’d have to … Continue reading
Summer Night in Trastevere
Streets bustling with tourists who walk slowly, looking up, right and left, mouths half open, stopping abruptly to take a photo, holding up the locals, those whose footsteps have a specific destination, who no longer look at the sights because … Continue reading
Santa Sabina
When we were in Rome, a couple of weeks ago, I insisted we go and see “my favourite church in Rome”. The first church I ever liked, to which I owe my introduction to, and love for, early sacred music. … Continue reading